Lolita Bonnet

 

https://www.simplicity.com/simplicity

Step: 1

GETTING STARTED: Download the PDF for a set of portable project instructions. Read through all of the instructions before beginning.

MATERIALS:

• Simplicity pattern 8127
• 3/4 yard of 45" to 60" wide fabric for bonnet. We used a blue floral cotton print for photo sample.
• 1 yard of 45" to 60" wide coordinating fabric for bonnet facing, ruffle and side bows. We used a lavender blending print for photo sample.
• 1/2 yard of 20" to 25" wide cotton buckram for bonnet interfacing
• 2-1/4 yards of 32 gauge millinery wire
• 1 yard of 5" wide eyelet or lace trim
• 1-1/2 yards of 1-1/2" wide ribbon
• Bonnet pattern: Pattern will print on ten (10) sheets of 8-1/2" x 11" paper. Note: Pieces 1, 2, 3 and 6 will each print on two (2) sheets of paper. Matching the red guide lines and pattern shapes, tape these pieces together before placing on fabric for cutting.
• Straight pins
• Scissors
• Sewing machine
• Matching thread
• Hand sewing needle

See the Supply List for items you can purchase here.

Step: 2

DIRECTIONS:

Cut bonnet brim and band from bonnet fabric, as directed on pattern pieces 1 and 4.

Step: 3

Cut bonnet ruffle, brim facing and band facing from coordinating fabric, as directed on pattern pieces 2, 3 and 4. Set aside remaining fabric for making bows at the end of the project.

Step: 4

Cut bonnet band interfacing and brim interfacing from buckram, as directed on pattern pieces 5 and 6.

Step: 5

Using a hand sewing needle and thread, hand stitch millinery wire around all four edges of the band interfacing. Use a blanket or whip stitch for best results. The wire will help in maintaining the shape of the bonnet. Hand shape band to fit the curve of the head, using a head form or model if available and using steam as needed to help achieve the desired shape.

Step: 6

Using a hand sewing needle and thread, hand stitch millinery wire to the OUTER edge of the brim interfacing. Use a blanket or whip stitch for best results. The wire will help the bonnet maintain its shape and prevent the brim from drooping. Gently shape the brim to a slight curve, steaming as needed to help achieve the desired shape.

Step: 7

Using a long straight machine stitch, place 2 rows of gathering stitches along the INSIDE edge of the brim facing, stitching from one outer notch to the other. Note: the inner notches on this edge will be used later when matching this facing to the brim and the band.

Step: 8

With RIGHT sides together, pin the OUTER edges of the brim and brim facing together. Stitch in a 5/8" seam. Press seam to blend stitches and clip curves. Turn sewn brim and facing RIGHT side out and press edge smooth.

Step: 9

Matching cut edges and notches, pull up gathering stitches so that the length of the INNER edge of the brim facing matches the INNER edge of the brim.

Step: 10

Slide the brim interfacing inside the brim and brim facing, matching edges so that the buckram is completely covered. Using a straight machine stitch, stitch the opening closed 5/8" from the cut edge, enclosing the interfacing.

Step: 11

Hem edges of eyelet or lace trim by turning back 1/4", and then 1/4" again. Using a straight machine stitch, stitch hem in place, stitching close to the inner folded edge.

Step: 12

Using a long machine stitch, stitch 2 rows of gathering stitches along non-scalloped edge of eyelet or lace, starting and finishing 1/2" from each end. Pull up gathering stitches to 13-1/4".

Step: 13

Place the WRONG side of the eyelet ruffle on the RIGHT side of the brim, matching cut edges and starting and ending ruffle approximately 1" from each end of the brim. Hand baste in place.

Step: 14

With RIGHT sides together, fold the ruffle in half lengthwise, matching notches and cut edges. Pin ends closed.

Step: 15

With a straight machine stitch, stitch ends closed in a 5/8" seam. Press seams to blend stitches and clip corners. Turn ruffle RIGHT side out, pressing ends flat. Press folded edge to create a crisp fold.

Step: 16

Using a long machine stitch, stitch 2 rows of gathering stitches along the raw edge of the ruffle, stitching between notches and through both layers of fabric. Pull up gathering stitches to 13-1/4".

Step: 17

Place the WRONG side of the fabric ruffle on the RIGHT side of the eyelet ruffle, matching cut edges and ruffle ends. Hand baste in place.

Step: 18

Using the stitching at the INNER edge of the brim facing as a guide, place the brim along the INNER wired edge of the band, with the brim and ruffle seam allowances overlapping the band UNDERNEATH, until the brim interfacing and wired band interfacing edges meet and the brim is perpendicular to the band. Pin in place.

Step: 19

Using a hand sewing needle and thread, hand stitch the edges of the brim to the wired edge of the band interfacing, stitching through all fabric and buckram layers. Use a small whip stitch for best results, stitching close together for added security.

Step: 20

With WRONG sides together, pin the bonnet band to the bonnet band facing, matching cut edges and notches. Using a regular machine stitch, stitch short edges and long unnotched edge each in a 5/8" seam. Press seams to blend stitching. Clip corners.

Step: 21

Turn band RIGHT side out and press flat. Turn open edges under 5/8" and press. Slide the band over the buckram band interfacing, until the pressed edges meet the brim stitching and the buckram is completely covered. Be sure to match the band fabric with the brim fabric, and the band facing fabric with the brim facing fabric. Pin in place.

Step: 22

With a hand sewing needle and thread, slip stitch the band in place, stitching through all layers and using small stitches placed close together for security and invisibility.

Step: 23

Center the ribbon on the bonnet band, so that the hanging ends are even. With a hand sewing needle and thread, hand tack the ribbon to the bonnet band, adding extra hand tacking at the ends of the band for added security.

Step: 24

From remaining coordinating fabric, cut two small bow and knot pieces from pattern #8127. Sew bows as directed on the pattern instruction sheet. Hand tack bows to the ends of the band, over the ribbon. Tip: if you do not have the pattern pieces for the bow and knot, you can substitute with ribbon bows or silk flowers.

Step: 25

Cut ribbon ends at a 45-degree angle to prevent fraying. Wear bonnet as shown in photograph.